Savory and sweet, earthy and spicy, Mr. Logan’s green-chili apple pie is an irresistible example of the lengths to which young pie makers are going to make their mark.
Pie had been lurking below the radar in recent years: taking cover during the ice cream trend, perhaps waiting to see which way the macaron tide would turn. (For proof that the cupcake craze has gone too far, consider the new turkey cranberry cupcake with gravy in the batter fromYummy Cupcakes in Los Angeles.)
Suddenly, New York and San Francisco are national centers of pie innovation. In Brooklyn, a pair of sisters from South Dakota are integrating sea salt and caramel into their apple pie and inventing aromatic fillings like cranberry-sage and pear-rosewater. In the East Village, at Momofuku Milk Bar, the pastry chef, Christina Tosi, has transferred the buttery, caramelized flavors of apple pie into a layer cake, with apple filling between the layers and crumbs of pie crust in the frosting.
Pies are awkward at birthday parties, and birthday parties can make or break a dessert. Cupcakes had already spent years daintily gaining ground at these recurring celebrations. Pies, however, have put in hardly any time. Certainly, some people will invite pies to their birthday parties, for the novelty of it or the sincere loyalty to crust and fruit. The New York Times article mentions that Four and Twenty Blackbirds, a pie shop in Brooklyn, made a wedding pie, which the author writes, “is an increasingly common alternative to wedding cake.” Increasingly common where? In a half-block of Park Slope?
To which I would say, how about my wedding, where Lady Oyster and I had twenty something pies ranging from fruit-based to cream-based and there was nary a slice leftover.
See also: 10 best places to eat pie in America